Craftspeople, or artisans, have been around for millennia. Back when everybody had a single role in their society, being an artisan meant that you'd been perfecting your family's craft since childhood. But as societies became larger and roles more specialized, cooks became pastry chefs, and then chocolatiers, and eventually, some of them became chocolate makers. Now many of these chocolate makers are crafting bars which are savored and shared just like bottles of wine.
Yet we still don’t think of wine and chocolate as being in the same category of fine food. To most people, the idea of a craft wine is redundant. Wine is already an elevated beverage, largely savored on special occasions and in specific settings. Chocolate entered the wider market as a mass-produced product, so we’ve been taught to think of it as a cheap snack. To differentiate craft chocolate, the language used to describe it must be elevated accordingly.
The term “craft” is a relatively new addition to the chocolate industry’s vocabulary. Many people started using it around 2013 and 2014, when a few large chocolate manufacturers started co-opting the term “bean to bar chocolate.” In the intervening years, chocolate makers, educators, and observers alike have tried to define the term “craft chocolate.” You can read some such examples here, here, and here. But the main tenets of craft chocolate are these: quality and traceability.